Q: Why do you use oil and not asphalt or a plastic coating?

A: Those types of products dry out immediately then shrink and crack, allowing water into the seams. The water freezes and expands the joints then thaws again allowing more water to accumulate and freeze, creating a vicious cycle. When our dripless oil occupies these seams, the water is displaced and the damage is greatly reduced. Asphalt will not creep into these tight seams. Wax products dry out as well and are too thick to penetrate. Oil is a natural lubricant. Oil and water do not readily mix. Our formula has a greater surface tension so it clings to the surface better than water. The process is identical to the high priced undercoaters but costs a fraction of dealer applications. Dripless oil stays on the vehicle and away from the environment.

Q: I've heard that dripless oil is not as effective as a runnier product.

A: The formulation is the key, too thin and it drips off the vehicle, too thick and it doesn't penetrate. The oil must be able to bulk up so that it occupies tapered sections upwards of 1/16". The rustproofing is also sprayed in the wheel wells and exposed bottom and must resist wash off. The product must be self-healing. It must resist evaporation. Drip oils are easily scraped off by snow and slush and end up in our sewer system - not good.

Q: Is an annual application necessary, I'm busy enough as it is?

A: Simple question, complex answer. Here's what generally happens in my 26 experience. A client buys a vehicle and waits until the " warranty " expires before coming in. The rust is underway - period. My job now is to retard the rusting process with my process. The oil migrates into the seams and slows the oxidation rate and doubles the service life of the car. Another scenario is when a client buys a used vehicle and I'm starting the rustproofing when it's 3 or 10 years old. Older vehicles have accumulated dirt and require high pressure cleaning to maximize adhesion and therefore more frequent application. If you can only get in once, the best product to use is our dripless oil because it creeps and penetrates for years. The amount of money you'll save by keeping a vehicle for 15 years or more is astonishing. Many people falsely believe that after 100,000 km that their car will cost too much if they keep it and so they stay on the 4 year replacement treadmill... do the math. If there is obvious rust in progress, nothing comes close to our oil in retarding it's progress.

Q: Can your oil be used as a salad dressing?

A: No

Q: Do you sell your product for shops or DIY'ers

A: Yes, we have 20 litre pails,4 litre jugs and 520 gram aerosol cans.

Q: I don't want holes drilled in my truck, can you still do the job?

A: Car design and assembly has changed drastically over the last 30 years. Vehicles are assembled with entire side panels welded onto a roof joint without a drip rail and covered with a plastic strip. In the eighties, cars were built with separate A, B and C verticle pillars welded to the rocker panels and they would accumulate water and rust out. These types of design required lots of holes drilled to access them. The modern chassis has a lot more open ventilation for easier access as well as removable plugs in the rocker panels. The doors have bigger drain holes on the bottom to shed water and these can be used as access points in our process.

Q: Why are you so much cheaper than the big name brand undercoaters?

A: We are a high volume shop that do only this, no oil changes, no windshields, no shocks and mufflers, just rustproofing.

Q: Beside your product, how is your service different than the competition?

A: Because our facility is owner operated, you get 26 years of personal experience as opposed to a young novice experimenting on your car. Another drastic difference is our use of a fogger body system that enables us to blow off old dirt and flaking paint as we go. Most shops use an airless system that has a flexible wand with a nozzle on the end. Only oil is sprayed out of the tip - no air and therefore it can't dislodge the dirt under the car. When I get these vehicles in, after being sprayed at other facilities, the bottoms are clumped with oil sprayed over the dirt and the water gets in and continues the rusting. Some shops clean with water and then immediately apply the oil to a soaked floor ... duh.

What We Offer